The early history and customs of tea and tea drinking in Japan

The Tea Detective
Uncovering and Exploring the Facts About Tea

Japan's Early Tea History

During Japan's 8th century Nara period (710-794), Emperor Kammu (r.781-806) sent various
monks and scholars on diplomatic missions to Chang' An, the capital of Tang era (681-907) China
to learn about and get an understanding of China, and Chinese culture.

These missions, called Kenyoshi, were to glean in-
formation and understanding of the Chinese and
their ways.

By acute observation and hands on experience
living among the Chinese, the monks and scholars
returned to Japan with not only knowledge of
China's culture, but by also bringing material ob-
jects, scrolls, statues, and paintings back with
them to Japan to learn from.

Around 804 two Japanese monks, Kukai (774-835)
and Saicho (767-822) went to China to study reli-
gion and doctrine, studying for several years and
each perfecting a different religious school of
thought. Upon returning to Japan each man intro-
duced their school of religion; Saiko-Tenda Budd-
hism, and Kukai-Zen Buddhism.

They also returned with the first tea seeds along with the first knowledge and information on
the concept of tea drinking.

It is possible, though, that knowledge of tea could have been in-
troduced earlier, in fact, as soon as 618, as early Japanese writ-
ings refer to "tea drinking," but there is no further information on
who or where it occurred, or how the tea was brewed or drunk.

There are several recorded tea references starting from the 8th
century, beginning with a written record of Emperor Shomu (r.724-749) reportedly serving 100
priests in his palace in 729. Tea drinking is also referred to in 814 in a collection of Kukai's
writings compiled by one of his disciples. In volume 4 of Shooryosho, in a reference made by
Kukai in 806, upon his return from China, it notes that while studying he drank "hot water with
tea," or Chanoyu.

Tea drinking was next recorded during the Heian era (794-1185) under the 52nd imperial ruler,
Emperor Saga. In a book called Kuiku Kokushi, it is noted that Abbot Eichu made tea and "with
his own hands served it to the emperor."

After that point much was written, carefully documenting and praising tea and the Chinese way
of drinking it.

For many years tea drinking in Japan was reserved for only a few select groups, including Japan-
ese monks, the imperial family, and nobility. For the Japanese nobility tea drinking was a way to
rise above dreary everyday life. For the monks who had planted small tea gardens on temple
grounds, tea drinking was thought of as a spiritual exercise.

                                              During Japan's Kamakura period (1192-1333) green tea drinking
                                               was encouraged for one's health by Myoan Eisai, founder of the
                                               Rinsai sect of Buddhism. Eisai (1141-1215) later became known
                                               as Eisai Zenji, or Zen Master. Over his lifetime Eisai made many
                                               trips to China, each time returning with tea seeds for planting,
                                               which he shared with other monks and priests.

These seeds were used to plant tea gardens throughout Japan, including those in Kyoto, Uji,
and Kyushu, and it's believed that Eisai provided the seeds and is responsible for starting the
old tea gardens at the Kozanji Temple in Kyoto.

The first Japanese book on tea was written by Eisai, called Kissa Yojoki, which translates to "Tea
Drinking Good For Health." Claiming tea conquers the five diseases and would remedy all disor-
ders he declared tea should be consumed by all citizens.

With his written directive tea drinking spread from the aristocracy to the warrior class. It was
the first time in history tea drinking in Japan was for simple enjoyment rather than as a medicinal
or healthful drink.

During the Muromachi period (1392-1573) tea drinking and the culture of tea was firmly estab-
lished in Uji, a rural area located just outside the imperial city of Kyoto, so much so that for
awhile tea was called ujicha.

Another advocate that marked teas cultural advancement was
Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa, the general responsible for starting
the Onin War, nearly destroying Kyoto before handing the lead-
ership over to his son and quietly retiring.

Afterwards Yoshimasa turned to more peaceful endeavors as the
Zen arts, tea, and poetry. It was due to his influence that tea entered the secular realm under
tea master, Murata Juko, eventually culminating in the tea ceremony, Chanoyu.

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Even though today Japan is a large, industrialized country, with busy, bustling cities, it still retains its strong culture
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complicated life, by quietly sipping a fine cup of tea.

We could learn much from them. Enjoy.

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