The Tea Detective
Uncovering and Exploring the Facts About Tea
China's "Golden Family" of
Panyang Congou Black Teas
The Panyang Congou family of black teas comes from China's Fujian Province and consists of:       
Golden Monkey, Golden Crab, Panyang Golden Needle (or King of Golden Needle) and, of course,
Panyang Congou.
Chinese black teas are given a longer, slower oxi-
dation period, concentrating a type of flavanoid
called thearubigins, and along with plenty of sweet
golden tips, give the tea a more rounded, gentler
body and mild, mellow flavor.

The thearubigins, together with plenty of sweet
tips, a fine pluck, and processing steps that draw
out the lightly sweet aroma of rock fruits, along
with hints of semisweet chocolate have made
these teas extremely popular in the U.S., and
Europe.  One of the "youngest" and most popular
of these teas is
Golden Monkey.

Golden Monkey originates in the Saowu region that
lies outside the city of Fu' an, near the coast in
China's Fujian Province.  Golden Monkey is a rela-
tively new tea developed for export in the last
15 to 20 years, and has a huge following in the West and Europe.

Golden Monkey is made from Da Bai (or Big White), the same cultivar
used to make
white tea.  The leaves are harvested when the tips are
as large as they can get without forming whole leaves.  The sweet
tips contain extra sugars that help the bud eventually form into a
whole leaf. During oxidation the bud turns a lovely golden color.

One of the keys to Golden Monkey's newness is in its name.  Most
Chinese teas are given two
names, with the first for the place of origin and the second the style of leaf.  An example is Pan-
yang Congou.  Panyang is a town in Fujian Province, and Congou is a tea trade classification for
this style of black tea with a twisted or coiled shape.  Golden Monkey means nothing aside from
processing and marketing purposes where the word "monkey" suggests a high quality tea.

                                Next in the list is Panyang (also called Tanyang) Golden Needle, which is      
                                 also located near the town of Fu' an in China's
Fujian Province.  Also called   
                                 King of Golden Needle, this tea also contains plenty of nice golden tips,        
                                 giving it a light, sweet flavor.  Because it contains less tips than Golden        
                                 Monkey it has a bit more body and stronger flavors of fruits and nuts.

                                The Panyang region has been producing black teas for over 200 years and   
                                 the best teas are described as "tippy" because of the large amount of          
                                 golden tips or buds present.

While the leaves of Golden Monkey are twisted or coiled, Panyang Golden Needle has straight,
flat needle-like leaves that have a polished sheen.  This is because they are slightly heated in a
wok and the repeated rubbing against the metal surface of the wok gives them a polished look.  
Panyang Golden Needle is finished in an oven rather than over a fire, so the well-rounded tea is
not overpowered by fire flavors.

Golden Crab is a lesser known tea.  Of the teas in the Panyang Congou family, they are all given
a fine pluck of one bud and a leaf and sorted into four quality grades, with the first being
Panyang Golden Needle (or King of Golden Needle), which has the finest leaf with the largest
amount of tip.  Next comes Golden Monkey with a slightly larger leaf and less tips, and Golden
Crab which is still larger.  Lastly, Panyang Congou has the largest leaf with the least amount of
tips, but with a more full-bodied, brisk flavor.

Panyang Congou is also grown outside the city of Fu' an in the small
village of Tang Yang on Taimu Mountain.  This tea is one of the last
of its kind, one of the great historical teas produced in China during
the tea trade days.

The word Congou is a corruption of the Chinese words
gong fu or
kung fu, meaning "highest mastery" or "highly skilled," and a tea trade classification referring to
the masterful skills needed to produce this type of twisted shape of tea by hand.

                                    Today Panyang Congou teas are made by machine with the leaves           
                                     rolled into a tight twist or spiral before being slowly oxidized to draw        
                                     out the thearubigins, the flavanoids responsible for the mild, mellow         
                                     flavors, along with other compounds.

                                    Panyang Congou is more full-bodied and brisk than its relatives, Golden   
                                     Monkey or King of Golden Needle, with less tips and the fruity flavor of      
                                     unsweetened baked apples, closer in taste to an
Assam or Nilgiri.

                                    Known as Tan Yang Congou in China, the first Panyang Congou tea
gardens were established over 300 years ago during the early Qing dynasty (1644-1911).  
Panyang Congou, along with Paklum and Chingwo were popular teas of the English during this
time of China's peak tea trade with Europe.  Today Paklum is no longer made and Chingwo is
also nearly out of production.

Most of the tea produced today in the small village of Tang Yang is
green, with Panyang Congou
accounting for only about 5%, or 20 tons, of the total 400 tons of tea produced yearly.  
Enjoy.
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